Soy sauce is often said to have originated from a fermented food called
"Sho" (pronounced in Japanese as "Hishio" or "Bishio"
and is as in "Sho-yu"), or Jiang in Chinese. The recipe of Jiang
came from China, where fermented food has a 3,000 year history.
Sho was used in preparing a variety of foods including vegetables, rice
crackers, delicacies, seaweed, pickles, fish and flesh. Sho is used particularly
for vegetables, pickles or seaweed is called "Kusa-bishio". Conversely,
"Uo-Bishio" is for fish and "Shishi-bishio" is used
in fermenting flesh and meat.
In Japan the word Sho (Hishio) now exclusively refers to foods fermented
from soybeans. The original recipes of Sho have not been found aside for
one exception: "General Instructions and Recipes", part of the
Daizen-ge in the Engishiki. This recipe states that Sho made to present
to the emperor consists of soybeans, melted rice, glutinous rice, wheat,
liquor and salt. It is similar to the ingredients you may find in soy sauce
today however, the proportion of ingredients and other secrets in crafting
the soy sauce is well kept in each brewery.
In 13th century, the method of making "miso", another form of
fermented soybeans, was introduced to Japan from Zhenjiang in the southwestern
Jiangsu province, People's Republic of China. Hottoh Kokushi taught it
at Kokoku-ji temple in Yura, Wakayama and it is now known for "Kinzanji
miso", which contains vegetables such as pickled "uri" (melon),
"shoga" (ginger), "nasu" (eggplant) and herbs like
"shiso" (perilla) and "sansho" (zanthoxylum piperitum).
"Tamari" was the brown thick liquid originally found in casks
of fermenting soybeans miso in Yuasa, Wakayama and, with its stronger flavor,
was later used to cook food like soups, stews and baked dishes. This is
how Shoyu was introduced to Japanese daily life and its method was spread
from a little town of Yuasa to all over Japan. For example, Yamasa was
originally founded in Yuasa and moved to Choshi, Chiba before it established
itself as one of worldwide leaders in soy sauce production.
In Japan there are now more than 1,500 producers of soy sauce including Kikkoman and Yamasa. Yet only 10 percent of them are creating soy sauce from the scratch because of its time-consuming process.
In order to bring perfection to the quality of soy sauce, the process requires
a long time to allow soy proteins, starches and fats to be converted into
"moromi", which contains easily-absorbed amino acids, sugars
and fatty acids. There is no other way to obtain a perfectly balanced soy
sauce in its color (at "sushi" restaurant, it is often called
"murasaki : purple" due to the color), aroma and, of course,
the taste.
From an economic standpoint this production method does not make sense to most of soy sauce producers. At Kaneiwa however, mass production of soy sauce is not first priority but a mission to deliver the highest quality soy sauce attainable today. This strategy has always been their foundation and the company is dedicated to crafting Shoyu in the old fashioned way.
Mastering a technique of making soy sauce in Yuasa, the founder of Kaneiwa
decided to start his own brewery in Kanaya (currently Aridagawa) about
100 years ago. One of the reasons to locate its manufacturing site in Kanaya
was the quality of water running through Kii Mountain: UNESCO's World Heritage
site.
Kaneiwa was founded in 1912 and has been manufacturing soy sauce in the
same manner from the day one even though its surrounding scenery has changed.
Naturally brewed Kaneiwa's "Shoyu" is quietly waiting to be matured
but its spirit is kicking and alive in historical wooden barrels. Please
give a try to this unique soy sauce which you can not find any other places.
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